Why Thru-hike? I hiked 850 across the Pyrenees | GR11 Spain

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The GR11 became my home

Rough, tough, brutal, and beautiful. The Pyrenees became my home for 50 days as I hiked the GR11, the Senda Transpirenaica, 850 kilometres from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. Ocean to sea, one step at a time. Much of it I walked solo. Some of it with my dog Wingo, some with friends, and some with my partner Jonatan, who hiked 500 km in two weeks just to catch up with me (I can't think of a wilder romantic gesture).

Why I set out on this thru-hike

I set out to experience life on the trail, simple, wild, and free in the Pyrenees region. For a change away from the sea. The GR11 wasn't just about hiking.  It was about living fully, carrying everything I needed on my back. And exploring the world in a different way, like following the route of the GR11,  And when you strip down to the essentials, you realize how little you actually need to live and to feel alive.

Minimalist backpacking setup

My backpack weighed between six and seven kilos without food and water, and it held everything I needed to live, learn, and explore. This lightweight setup made the GR11 a true minimalist hiking and ultralight backpacking experience, simple and self sufficient.

What trail life taught me

The GR11 runs through the wildest parts of the Pyrenees: vertical boulder fields, wild berries, passes above 2,500 metres. I didn't go to escape anything. I went to be in nature full on, for weeks, away from noise and screens.

I already live close to nature, in a van by the coast or on a sailboat, but this was next level. Fifty days of mountain passes, berry foraging and wild camping under the stars, through the Basque Country, Navarra, Aragon and Catalonia.

Trail life is simple. Food, water, shelter, and the path ahead. That's the whole day, and it's the most connected to nature I have ever been.

The GR11 as a way of living

A thru-hike is the best wellness-in-the-wild retreat there is, mentally, physically and spiritually. You let go of what you don't need, you get used to not knowing what's round the next corner, and a cold river and a few wild raspberries make you happier than most things at home.

If you've ever thought about taking on a long-distance hike in Europe, this is your sign to go for it. But you have to be prepared. It is wild.

It wasn't always easy

Hiking this trail pushed me in ways I never expected.

One of my best tips? Don't wait until you have the perfect gear or the perfect timing.

Start with what you have and let the trail teach you. Most of what I learned came from the days themselves, and the kilometres.

Start where you are

You don't need 50 days or 850 kilometers to start. Adventure is wherever you find it. Start small, start easy, and start now. Every day you get a little wilder and wiser. Hiking across the Pyrenees felt like one big treasure hunt. Full of surprises and obstacles every day.

Trail discoveries and daily life

Each day brought something new, making the distance feel shorter. Fruit to pick like blackberries, raspberries, blueberries. Wildlife encounters like marmots, mountain goats, wild pigs, and even bears can be found along the senda in the national parks of the Pirenaica (I had two encounters). Shooting stars, hailstorms, snow, thunder. And experiences that the video could never do justice.

It was brutal at times. Sliding through mud is just part of the adventure on the long stages of the hike.  Freezing fingers and lips. But those are the moments that make you feel so alive and appreciate the little things we often take for granted. Like having two legs that work. Access to clean water and air. Or simply, having dry socks.

Nature connection

As a long-distance hiker on the GR11, you are so connected to nature. You experience the power and impact of the weather daily. You realize how precious resources like water, fresh fruit, or wood for a fire truly are. The things we take for granted become priceless when you have to search and hike for them. It's an experience that embodies natural living and live with nature.

After weeks in the wild, nature starts to look different. A tree offering shade becomes a gift. A river isn’t just a calming sound, it’s a life source that nourishes the park and its wildlife. A blue sky isn’t just pretty. It means dry socks and safer footing, essential for completing the hike.

Trail life gives you a lasting respect for nature because you are directly dependent on it.

But the deeper truth is that we are always dependent on nature. The longer you’re out there, the less scary and more familiar it all becomes, as you find your place in nature. You feel part of nature, not just a visitor. And that's a powerful feeling.

Fear, doubt and wild lessons

There were definitely days I questioned my sanity. Like waking up with frozen tent poles. Encountering a roaring bear. Doing a thousand-meter steep descent in pouring rain. Missing a trail marker and adding hours of ghost kilometers. Or when two of my three trekking poles broke and I wasn’t sure how to continue.

But those challenges led to new insights and discoveries. That we are capable of so much more than we think. That the trail always finds a way to surprise you and provide for you.

Simple living and essentials

Trail life is simple. It's all about scouting for food, water, shelter, and the path ahead.

When you strip down to the essentials you realise how little you need. My pack weighed 6 to 7 kilos without food or water, and it held everything.

Again, don’t wait for the perfect gear or moment; just hit the trail and enjoy the journey. The trail will teach you what you really need, much like the lessons learned on the GR11.

Finding my flow

The best part of walking alone was the quiet. Just me, Wingo, the mountains and my thoughts, and within a few days a rhythm that felt natural. I planned less and noticed more.

I could feel my intuition strengthening and my mind focusing on what really matters. For work, I often organize adventures for others with Ocean Nomads, which I love to do. But now, I could really step into my own flow in nature.

Rest is when dreams are crystallized, especially after a long day on the trail. Away from input, expectations, and noise, you find solace in the quiet stages of the hike, a perfect place for reflection. It strengthens your intuition and reminds you to make sure you're climbing the right mountain. In life, and on trail.

Company on the trail

Even in the quiet, there was connection. With the land, the animals, and the people I met along the way.

Trail angels and fellow hikers always seemed to appear when I needed them most. There's an unspoken camaraderie on the trail. You're all in it together, even when you're walking alone.

And the people. A butcher who gave Wingo meat, strangers offering rides, hikers sharing chocolate. My dad joined for the start of stage 16, a forest walk with river crossings and rope work. Dad just did that! That one goes in the memory book.

Final thoughts on the GR11

The GR11, or any European long-distance trail, is more than a hike; it’s a great adventure through the heart of nature. It’s an invitation to live differently. To slow down. To reconnect with yourself and the natural world while traversing the stages of the GR11.

You don’t need 850 kilometers or 50 days to start. Start small, perhaps with a weekend trip in the Basque Country to explore the senda. Start where you are.

Each step brings more clarity, more connection, and more trust in yourself and the world.

If you've ever dreamed of an adventure like this, go for it. Long-term, full-on nature connection is what the world needs, and I've not found a better investment in my health.

So pack your bag, put on your shoes, and take that first step. The trail will meet you where you are and I promise, it’s worth it.

Watch Part 1: What's the GR11 like and why go on a long-distance hike?

Watch the first video of my GR11 thru-hike on YouTube

The GR11 on a map

This is the whole GR11 on the map, from Cabo Higuer on the Atlantic to Cap de Creus on the Mediterranean. Ocean to sea, one step at a time. Click a dot to see places to stay in the towns along the way.

Download the GPX track of the whole GR11 (zipped, 37 sections). Load it on your phone or GPS before you go, because there's no signal in many valleys. The route data comes from OpenStreetMap, © OpenStreetMap contributors. The sections follow OpenStreetMap, so they don't match the official stage numbers.

GR11 resources

My Ultralight GR11 Gear List
All GR11 Blog Posts & Trail Tips
Hygiene on Trail. How to pee and poo in the wild
GR11 Hiking Tales & Tips on Youtube

Let's connect

Got questions about the GR11 Trail, Thruhiking in Spain, Solo hiking, or trail life?
Say hi on Instagram. Subscribe to the newsletter for updates on the GR11 videos and other slow travel adventures. Navigate to my YouTube for more videos on slow, conscious adventure by foot, van, or sail.

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