Table of Contents
- I Reached START
- The First Kilometers of the GR11
- Stage 2 GR11: Drizzle and Progress in the Pyrenees
- Stages 3 & 4 GR11: Mud, Rain, Sliding and Slippering
- Stages 5, 6, & 7 GR11: Seeing the High Pyrenees
- Stage 8 GR11: From Navarra into Aragon
- Stage 9,10 & 11 of the GR11 across the Pyrenees
This summer I hiked across the Pyrenees from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. I hiked across the Pyrenees, 850km on the GR11 Transpirenaica.
What a trail and treasure hunt! Rough, tough, brutal and beautiful! This was probably the most mental and physical challenging but also most rewarding adventure of my life. 50 days of calling the trail my home and a mountain of memorable moments richer.
I hiked parts with my dog Wingo, with friends, and with my partner Jonte. But the biggest part alone in solitude. It’s very special to be on your own in the wild and getting at ease with it all. In tune with my own and nature’s rhythm. Experience to treasure!
Here's part 1 of my trip diary: Etapa 1-11, segment 1 of the GR11 across the Pyrenees.
I Reached START
August 9, 2024, Hondaribia, Spain
I reached START, and isn’t that usually the hardest part? I’m off on a new adventure—my biggest hike ever: 840 kilometers across the Pyrenees. Together with my dog Wingo. And train angels here and there.
With adventure sister Roline, we walked our first meters today. Super nice to do the first miles together. So good to finally be on the way. It took quite some preparation to reach the start, ready to live on the trail for about seven weeks.
The first day couldn’t have been better! Woke up in the glamping car next to a stream, found a sweet and safe spot for the campervan, and the BlaBlaCar angel dropped us off at the start (saving us a train ride and a two-hour walk). The supermarket opened doors especially for us, a last dip in the Atlantic, and here we go!
I’m writing this from the tent after hiking the first 12 kilometers out of civilization, into nature. I’m very proud of Wingo, Roline, and me. Buenas noches.
The First Kilometers of the GR11
Location: 43°16’53.3”N, 1°41’29.6”W
Distance hiked: 32 km / 840 km
Ascent: 830 m
Descent: 820 m
Nights camped: 2
Wild food: Blackberries, wild strawberries, and mint.
Highlights: Sharing this with Roline and Wingo. Delicious pincha de tortilla, an apple, and a shady riverbed to survive the hottest day of the year. Blackberry season is starting!
Challenges: Battery empties fast, it’s hot (especially for Wingo), mosquitoes at night, lice falling from trees, and a random dog ate our dinner.
Broken: Zipper of the tent, tent pole, and sunglasses.
Fixed: All of the above.
Blisters: 0
Highest point: 448 m
Spirit: High
I’m writing this from the best camp spot ever next to the river, in the shade with a view over 100 shades of green.
So far, the trail has been lovely. It’s green, often shady, with a spectacular view now and then. There are some ups and downs to train the legs, but nothing crazy. It’s really nice to start the trail with Roline and share this adventure. We’re tuning into nature, fixing our setup, sweating a lot, and finding a flow.
We’ve come across about 12 other hikers, most of whom are doing a section of the GR11. Water sourcing has been easy with lots of running streams and fountains. Wingo is doing well. We need to go slow and easy for him. He can handle a lot but needs more rest than us humans.
Last evening, we made it to the town of Bera, where we could charge, eat, and figure out the best plan for today, which was easy: we stay here.
Today the forecast says 40 degrees. We find ourselves on a river beach where we can swim, stay cool, plan ahead, and make friends with the domingueros.
The next days, the forecast says rain and thunder, so let’s see what sensible and safe plan we can come up with. We’re not in a rush; there’s no deadline. We let the weather and Wingo decide.
We feel good. A little bit sore but not nearly as sore as on previous hikes I did. I think a better-fitting backpack and drinking electrolytes make a huge difference here.
I’m super proud of Roline, Wingo, and me. Let’s see what the next days bring!
Stage 2 GR11: Drizzle and Progress in the Pyrenees
Location: 43°08’54.2”N, 1°31’01.9”W
Distance hiked: 62 km / 840 km
Weather: Drizzling rain with a ray of sunshine, around 22 degrees
Ascent: 1270 m
Descent: 1120 m
Highest point: 795 m
Nights camped: 4
Wild food: Chamomile for tea and lots of blackberries. Freshwater springs are also a treasure.
Animals spotted: A snake, beautiful horses, and lots of sheep, cows, and goats.
Challenges: Missed a water source twice, period, heavy rain and thunder in the forecast, and Roline lost a shoe.
Highlights: Waterproof-proven tent, flowers and greenery, Menú del Día, and Roline found her shoe.
Broken: Hole in the tent.
Fixed: The hole.
Spirit: High
Trail tip: Time town visits with “Menú del Día” hours (around 13:00–16:00) for a good-value superpower meal.
We made it happy and safe to the next stage. Etapa 2/47 done.
It’s raining, and I can hear the thunder in the mountains. We did well staying in town. With albergues being booked out weeks in advance, our shelter today is the tent under the local market roof. I love being (almost) self-sufficient on this trail. You carry more but can go with the flow, weather, and feelings. Last night the tent passed the rain test, but we didn’t want to go for the bucket test tonight. The forecast said lots of rain, and the last hours proved it right.
The only things we need to source are water, food, and power, which is doable but also a big part of the tasks on the trail. And happiness.
This stage, Bera to Elizondo, is beautiful! Lots of trees and greenery, views, small soft paths, and a freshwater spring here and there. It felt like hiking in the tropics.
So far, the trail has been a dry luxury, but that’s about to change with the buckets of rain falling out of the sky right now. Bye dry socks! Hello mudslides? Vamos a ver!
We’re settling into the trail, getting fitter each day, and eating our hearts out. With fast-changing weather forecasts, we are also leveling up our mountain navigation, weather reading, and planning skills. I’m proud of our decision-making so far. We’re safe and dry under a roof. The weather is not to play with.
It’s way less hot, and Wingo has been thriving over the last few days on his longest dog walk ever.
Stages 3 & 4 GR11: Mud, Rain, Sliding and Slippering
Location: 42°59’19”N, 1°19’49.9”W
Distance hiked: 97 km / 840 km
Weather: Rain, 18 degrees
Ascent: 1090 m (Stage 3) + 765 m (Stage 4)
Descent: 385 m (Stage 3) + 780 m (Stage 4)
Nights camped: 7
Wild food: Blackberries
Highlights: Breakfast in fairy tale land. We made it to the end of the mud party. Wingo was the happiest.
Challenges: Rain, mud, wet everything, wind, cold, and a slug invasion.
Broken: Tent pole (again).
Fixed: Tent pole (for now).
Highest point: 1213 m
Spirit: Still high
Trail tip: Bring a waterproof, proven rain jacket or poncho. A rain jacket doesn’t always mean rainproof.
You may also like: What I brought hiking the GR11
Wet. Muddy. Wild. But we made it through without tears and too much trouble.
We knew it was going to rain in the morning, with a few buckets expected around 11. We figured we would find some sort of shelter by then. We did not. Not a single roof. Rain was full-on all morning, turning the trail into streams and mud. Full acceptance mode ON. Our rain jackets did not pass the waterproof test. Wingo loved it, finding fishing pools all over.
There were a few refugios marked on the map where we aimed to find shelter and make ourselves a cup of chai tea. All were locked. We set up camp in the front yard of one. It was flat, with water available and hooks to hang out soaked gear. Unfortunately, it also came with an invasion of slugs. I was on slug watch the rest of the afternoon. The homemade chai tea finally came out and warmed us.
Stage 3 was all about rain, rivers, and our feet. Stage 4 was beautiful, with lots of greenery, views, rivers, and birds. An hour of sunshine dried all gear except for the socks and shoes. No rain, but strong and cold wind gusts.
We arrived in town ready for a supermarket resupply and a camp outside of town, but it was a public holiday, and we found ourselves in the middle of the festivities, eating the only thing available: a ridiculously expensive Oetker pizza.
Today felt like the easiest trail day so far, but I feel the sorest. Bedtime. Tomorrow we charge, resupply, and head off to Etapa 5. In the town of Burguete, the Camino de Santiago also passes through. It’s full of hikers here, and we’ve met a few characters hiking the full GR11. It’s a thing and adds coolness to the trail.
Hiker’s high is ON. We forget about the world. Life is here and now.
Stages 5, 6, & 7 GR11: Seeing the High Pyrenees
Location: 42.8583°N, 0.9265°W
Distance hiked: 153 km / 840 km
Weather: Perfect, around 20 degrees
Nights camped: 10
Wild food: Blackberries
Animals spotted: Beautiful horses and mating slugs
Challenges: Chased by cows, guarding Wingo at night, lost a few items, and sleep deprivation.
Highlights: Those views. The cute villages, the moon, the greenery, and sharing this with Roline.
Broken or lost: Second tent pole, dog leash, and sunglasses.
Found: Dog leash.
Spirit: High to low to high
Trail tip: Bring a tent. Albergues are often booked out weeks in advance. A tent gives you flexibility, freedom, and time in nature, in tune with your needs. Make sure it’s a good size for a proper snooze for all.
You may also like: What I brought hiking the GR11
Trail life is full-on, and phone time is not.
We’ve been lucky with perfect hiking weather. Not too cold, hot, or sunny. Dry trails. What a difference the weather and trail state can make. Even the shoes got dry.
The lush greenery has made way for epic views of the high Pyrenees. We’ve been re-meeting fellow hikers, which adds life to the trail.
A herd of cows chased us. That was a first! It raised my heartbeat as much as hiking uphill. Letting Wingo off the leash saved us from a cow incident.
Wingo is the best guardian. He checks in on us while hiking and guards at night. However, this has come at the cost of our sleep and the tent. He needs to be in the tent for a peaceful night, but it’s too small. A second tent pole broke, and we reinvented a shelter setup with hiking poles. Luckily, the weather has been on our side. Last night, Wingo and I swapped spots—me outside, him inside—so we all managed a few hours of sleep.
Grateful to have shared the first trail section with Roline. After 10 days and 153 kilometers together, we each continue our own path. Proud of Roline and Wingo for making it this far.
The time has come to start my solo hike. I’m excited for all the unknown to come.
Stage 8 GR11: From Navarra into Aragon
Location: 42.8635°N, 0.8207°W
Distance hiked: 165 km / 840 km
Weather: Around 25 degrees
Nights camped: 11
Challenges: Figuring out food for four days, finding sunglasses and a power plug, and sleep deprivation.
Highlights: A pretty waterfall, shady trails, meeting other GR11 hikers, and finding shelter.
Broken or lost: Nothing
Spirit: Medium
Trail tip: Overnight oats with dates—a simple, lightweight, multi-day superpower breakfast that brings happiness.
Writing this from sweet simple shelter hut. The first one I’ve found open on the trail. I’m now in the province of Aragon and out of Navarra.
Today is a semi rest, re-asses, figure out and re-supply day. This stage is only 12 km without crazy ascents or descents.
It was a wild night of barking and cowboy camping with little sleep. Today I must take it easy. I got up early after waving Ro and walked into town for resupply, phone calls, next stage planning and figuring out tent fix and shelter possibilities.
The next couple of stages there are no shops or towns. I need to resupply food for Wingo and I for 4 days. The backpack got heavy! Would I have enough food for Wingo? The butcher gave him some raw meat. So sweet. Further he’s mainly on catfood now as this comes in carryable size 😅 and I carry some superpowers supplements for him.
Around noon I walked out of town. Slow and easy. It was hot but luckily mainly forest hiking.
After a few hours and a river swim I laid down and woke up 3 hours later. It was necessary 💤
I met more long distance hikers. One had a paper map showing me a shelter place. I went for it and it was open! I settled in, washed and filtered water in the river in front. A neighbouring campervan let me charge the phone a little bit. At 20.30 I crashed to sleep, with the alarm at 6.30.
Tomorrow the steepest stage so far is on route! With all that food .
My first long distance solo hike ever has started, with Wingo I’ve been dreaming about this for a long time. To live on the trail. With nature. In your rhythm. Solitude. And here we are.
Xx from the wild
Stage 9,10 & 11 of the GR11 across the Pyrenees
Location: 42.7852°N, 0.5348°W
Kms hiked: 200 / 840
Weather: Around 25 degrees, strong sun
Day: 15
Highest point: 2300 meters
Challenges: Steep ascents and descents, that broken tent, first almost blister, broken hiking pole.
Highlights: The views, many water points, deer, solitude, quality time with Wingo.
Spirit: High
Trail tip: From now on, there are refugios (shelters) now and then (and open!) where you can just stay. Basic, but you can put your mat under a roof. Great when it rains. For me though, camping is the best.
The trail turned rocky, more steep, higher, and is rated more difficult. Trail markers are now also cairns (stone towers), water is only sourced from the rivers, it all got a little more wild and challenging. But wow, so beautiful too! Views have been wild! I’ve seen the first snow, deer, marmots, and pigs, and so did Wingo.
Mesmerized by a beautiful barranco and waterfalls, I missed a trail mark and made a few ghost kilometers but instead, we got more water which wasn’t an unnecessary luxury at that moment. We’ve had some hot days. I’m finding my rhythm. The new strategy is getting up before first light, chilling in the hot hours, and walking a few more kilometers in the early evening.
I’ve been meeting the same hikers each day. Each one hiking the GR11 alone, but we come across each other a couple of times per day and check in with each other. Super cool!
With no shelter on the trail and a broken tent, I got a little bit worried about the sleeping situation, but then a fellow hiker kindly offered his repair stick, and I managed to pitch the tent. First night of Wingo and I in the tent. Surrounded by cows, but we were both too tired to bother. Super happy the tent shelter is operational again. I’m going to need it in the High Pyrenees.
Writing this from the hammock on a campsite, as in one with facilities. My favorite trail angels, aka my parents, arrived. They will holiday in my campervan and be around in case of anything. I’m resting, digesting, fixing, and planning for what’s next.
With some serious thunder on the forecast, timing-wise, it works out perfectly.
Super excited about the next stages. I feel ready.
More coming! :)
What would you like to hear stories/ tips of? Have you heard about the GR11 trail before? Any questions about this hike for Wingo & me?
My best trail tip for now: Prioritise it! A solo long-distance hike! Without a tight schedule so you can follow the weather and feelings. In my experience the healthiest and wildest possible wellness retreat for body, mind and soul.
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