GR11 Stage 16 and 17: Waterfalls in Ordesa y Monte Perdido (Trail Diary)

Part of my GR11 trail diary. Catching up? Read stages 1-11 and stages 12-16 first.

⛰️42° 38’ 33” N, 0° 3’ 33” E
Hiking across the Pyrenees on the GR11
Stage 17/47
Day 22.
📍Fuen Blanca
Kms hiked: 348 / 840
Weather: Cloudy, calm but Thunder in the background 16°C
🍲Food: home made chai Tea & dhal with lentils, herbs & seaweed
💫Highlights: Surreal campsite, waterfalls in every direction, solo shelter hobbit house.
🤪Challenges: Red ants in my pants vs thunder above tent dilemma, sore feet, wet mats,
Trail tip: The hut at Fuen Blanca is super basic but the views 😍
Highest point today: 2357m
Spirit: calm, cozy, grateful

Good Morning, Mountains! Ordesa National Park Awaits

Rise and shine, this is Day 22 hiking the Spanish Pyrenees on the legendary GR11 trail. Today’s adventure takes me straight into the heart of Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park in Aragon, surrounded by waterfalls, wild stone passages, and unpredictable Pyrenean weather.

I’m hiking solo (Wingo is resting today!) and it’s one of those perfect mornings: hardly anyone around, sun is up, and the waterfalls are majestic after last night’s heavy rains. Pro tip: If you want this magical solitude in Ordesa, hit the trail early!

The Beauty & Challenge of Ordesa y Monte Perdido

Ordesa y Monte Perdido is wild, diverse, and honestly, has some of the most spectacular waterfalls I’ve ever seen on any trail. Today the river is murky and roaring after the thunderstorm. Nature’s drama at its peak. I’m making the most of the good weather, knowing it’s about to switch up. Mountain weather rules here; never take it for granted!

With strict wild camping rules in the national park, planning ahead is key. There are only a couple places where you’re allowed to sleep, like the busy Refugio Goriz (book way in advance!) or a secret spot which can only be reached by the determined and wild ;)

Trail Stories: Safety, Planning & Real Mountain Life

Yesterday, thunder forced me down to the valley, where I sheltered in my campervan and waited out the storm. It was the right call; even my bed got wet and hiking would have been sketchy. If you’re slower or just want to smell every flower, you need to plan carefully here, because legal sleeping spots are few and the weather can change in an instant.

This morning, as I climbed into Ordesa y Monte Perdido, the trail was empty. The river crossings and grassy sections were pure bliss after all those rocks. I ran into Maria, a Dutch hiker who started her journey all the way from home. She told me her night at the refugio was wild; hail, destroyed tents, helicopters flying rescue missions. The Pyrenees do not mess around.

Pictures from today:

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The Wild Ordesa Route: Waterfalls & Mountain Passes

This spot is insane. There's like waterfalls there. A waterfall there. There's a big waterfall there. And then there's water falling off the rocks. I'm surrounded by waterfalls and I'm going to sleep in the middle of it.
From the trail, on camera

With the sun blocked by mountains, the morning was cool and the Pyrenees waterfalls never stopped. The trail markers and a few helpful stone cairns kept me on track, even when the path got confusing. Ordesa y Monte Perdido is real treasure-hunt hiking, with scenery flipping dramatically at every col.

Climbing up to Collado de Arroblo (2,343m), I made the smart call to skip the advanced mountaineer route. With storm clouds gathering, I aimed for the secret tiny shelter. Only a handful of people usually fit, so luck and timing matter.

Solo, Safe, and Soaking It In

Today’s hiking was pure serenity: birds singing, fresh air, not a single airplane in sight. But you have to pay attention, the trail is rocky and ankle-twisting, and it’s easy to wander off.

Arriving at lower altitudes, the pines and wildflowers made everything smell like summer. Another waterfall appeared; honestly, I lost count. As I zeroed in on the hut, a wall of nettles tested my nerves, but after a bit of creative route-finding, I made it!

Pyrenean Camping Decisions

Waterfall above our terrace and below our terrace as well. What would you prefer? A roof above your head like here but you are accompanied by an army of red ants? Or you pitch the tent and yeah you get some rain and thunder on top of your tent. It's a tough one.
From the trail, on camera

What would YOU pick? Sleep in a basic stone hut side by side with an army of red ants, or pitch your slightly-broken tent and risk thunder and rain pounding on your roof all night? This is trail life on the GR11!

Today, I chose the ants. Dried out the mats, cleaned house a bit, and watched the clouds roll in over crazy waterfalls. I also eyed the nearby overhang of rock (hello, prehistoric shelter) but sleeping under a giant rock didn't feel so good;) Even met a giant German hiker doing three weeks in reverse direction.

Dinner was a luxury. Dhal with rice and lentils and a super strong chai tea, all brewed up while the sky continued to threaten rain and a 30% chance of thunder (thank you, Garmin InReach Mini!). Ate, massaged my wrecked left toe (it’s not a blister, just something gnarly), and made a little cave nest for the night.

Simple Routines, Trail Joys

It’s the little things:

Sipping my home made chai tea in the wild
Staring down the ants and claiming my (tiny) spot in the wild
Watching more and more clouds gather, grateful for every dry moment.
Trading stories with passing hikers: who all agree: sleep, shelter, and food are the priority. Everything else? Bonus!

Tonight, I’m skipping the earplugs just to listen to the waterfalls and sounds of nature.

The next day: Brutal ascent and descent and my dog comes back.

A big up, big down. Classic GR11.

Some Wildful Wisdoms

Ordesa y Monte Perdido’s beauty is next-level. Respect the forecast. Simple comforts and smart decisions win. And of course, respect nature
Stop and make a detour for the waterfalls. Those moments are why we walk.
Don’t underestimate the power of a good hot meal, even if it’s just instant couscous with weird herbs!
Community matters. It might look like solo hiking, but trail life is full of family.

New friends, unexpected shelters, the magic of hiking Ordesa y Monte Perdido after a storm. I wouldn’t trade it for anything. If you’re planning a GR11 adventure, or just dreaming about Pyrenean trails, drop a comment or subscribe to my YouTube or newsletter for more real, wild stories.

Solo on alpine terrain? Bring the Garmin InReach Mini

For trails like this where cell signal vanishes and storms roll in fast, the Garmin InReach Mini is the one piece of safety gear I would not hike without. SOS button, two-way satellite messaging, weather updates from anywhere, live tracking so my mum knew where I was every two hours. Saved more than one camp night on the GR11.

Check the Garmin InReach Mini

FAQ: Stage 17 GR11 and Ordesa y Monte Perdido

Can you wild camp in Ordesa y Monte Perdido?

Strict wild camping rules apply. There are only a couple of places where you’re allowed to sleep, like the busy Refugio Goriz (book way in advance!) or a secret spot which can only be reached by the determined and wild ;) Always check the latest park rules.

Where to stay in Ordesa and Monte perdido?

If you're not camping or staying Goriz there's a handful options in and near the National Park. Torla is a great base. See the map below for availability near the park.

How do I book Refugio Goriz?

Refugio Goriz fills up fast. Book way in advance through the official refuge website, especially in summer.

What is Refugio Fuen Blanca?

A super basic stone hut surrounded by waterfalls. No reservation system. A little bit dirty. A little bit wet inside. Room for only a handful of people. I slept there on stage 17 of the GR11 sharing the floor with an army of red ants (See video).

How long is stage 17 of the GR11?

I hiked roughly 23 km on my day 22, taking the alternate route to Refugio Fuen Blanca instead of the official stage end at Refugio Goriz. Plan for a full hiking day.

What is Collado de Arroblo?

A high mountain pass at 2,343m on the GR11 route through Ordesa y Monte Perdido. From the col, an advanced mountaineer route branches off. With storm clouds gathering, I made the smart call to skip it and aimed for the secret tiny shelter.

Is Ordesa y Monte Perdido worth visiting?

Yes. It has some of the most spectacular waterfalls I’ve ever seen on any trail. UNESCO-protected and accessible from the GR11 or as a standalone visit. New friends, unexpected shelters, the magic of hiking it after a storm. I wouldn’t trade it for anything.

Trail Tips & Final Thoughts

Always check the Ordesa y Monte Perdido hiking and camping rules, especially if you want to wild camp or book a refuge. Weather apps can’t always keep up here; learn to read the sky. Be ready with waterproof gear, have a backup plan, and dream big. The waterfalls will blow you away!

For the full kit I carried on the GR11, see my GR11 gear list with weights.

Thanks for hiking along! If you want to support my journey or get exclusive trail checklists, check out my Patreon. Hasta luego, and may your socks stay dry and your shelter be cosy.

Want the full story on tape? Watch the GR11 video diary on my YouTube channel and subscribe to follow the rest of the trail.