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Waitukubuli National Trail Diary

By April 17, 2026April 20th, 2026No Comments

Table of Contents

Intro to the Waitukubuli National Trail

The Waitukubuli National Trail (WNT) is a 14-segment, +/-184 km long-distance hiking trail that runs the full length of Dominica, from Scotts Head in the south to Cabrits National Park in the north. It's the longest trail in the Caribbean, passes through UNESCO-listed rainforest, Kalinago indigenous territory, volcanic peaks, rivers, and coastal villages, and takes around 12 days to thru-hike end to end. This post is my day-by-day diary plus practical planning info for each of the 14 segments: distance, time, current trail condition, where to sleep (Budget / Mid-range / Eco-luxury), and the AllTrails and official WNT links.

In March 2023, Johnny Mango and I set out to thru-hike the full WNT. We were told it wasn't possible. Hurricane Maria had wiped out sections in 2017, bridges were collapsed, and no one we met had completed the full trail since. We were, apparently, the first to finish it end to end post-Maria. These pages document what we found, who helped us, where we slept, and what you need to know if you want to hike it yourself, whether that's the full thing or just a single segment.

Hiking just one or two segments? That's a great way to experience the trail. I've built out a block under each segment below so you can plan it as a stand-alone. For logistics (trail pass, gear, food, safety), read my full Waitukubuli National Trail planning guide first.

WNT Segment 1: Scotts Head to Soufrière

Day 1/12. Where the ocean meets this wild tropical island.
March 24.
📍Scott's Head, 15° 12′ 52″ N, 61° 22′ 22″ W
Distance: 6.5 km / 180 km
Time: 2-3 hrs
Weather: hot
Sleep: Soufriere Guesthouse
Highlights: starting this trail!
Challenges: not knowing if it was possible
Treasures found: the start, the first trail marker, guava fruit & hotsprings!
Spirit: Super excited and curious

It was an adventure just to reach the shores of Dominica by sailboat. With Ocean Nomads, the ocean-conscious sailing community I founded, we sailed across from the Canary Islands in 21 days on a hundred-year-old classic ship. It was my 5th Atlantic crossing and 4th winter in the Caribbean. This time it was time to explore deeper! I was already in Dominica in 2016, writing my book. That's when I learned about the Waitukubuli National Trail. A jungle hike that goes all the way from the south of Dominica to the north. I remembered to bring a tent! Just in case…

We were not sure if it was possible to do the trail. Dominica got hit hard by Hurricane Maria in 2017 and we couldn't find any information about anyone who had completed the trail since. The locals told us it was not possible to hike it yet. But no one really knew… Jon from the Soufriere Guesthouse had been busy clearing sections. According to him it should be possible, except for segment 8, which he set out one day to clear the final bits!

So here we are, exploring the first segment. Full of excitement about the unknown ahead of us.

“All right, here we are at the southern terminus of the Waitukubuli National Trail. I don't know if it's the official monument, but we put our hand there, and then from here, it's just going to go north.”

“I found the first marker, yellow and blue. Oh yeah, that's the first marker, the first one we found.”

Two hikers wearing backpacks on a hill overlooking Scotts Head village and the Caribbean Sea at the start of the Waitukubuli National Trail.
Looking down on Scotts Head from the first climb of Segment 1.
A hiker in a light blue shirt climbs a steep, overgrown jungle hillside on Segment 1 of the Waitukubuli National Trail.
Climbing up into the jungle on Segment 1.
A tree trunk marked with the blue and yellow trail blazes of the Waitukubuli National Trail in Dominica's rainforest.
The blue-and-yellow WNT markers. Keep an eye out, they're not always obvious.
A wooden sign reading Waitukubuli National Trail Access surrounded by green foliage.
WNT access sign on Segment 1.
Official Waitukubuli National Trail segment chart with distances, walking times and difficulty levels.
The official segment chart. Times run optimistic with a full pack.
Orange and yellow heliconia flowers in a lush green rainforest on the Waitukubuli National Trail.
Heliconia in the rainforest understory.

WNT Segment 1 Tips & Resources

Segment 1 is +/-6.5 km and takes 2 to 3 hours. It's the shortest segment on the trail but not a pushover: the first climb out of Scott's Head is steep, overgrown with guava trees in places, and uses ropes where an old bridge used to cross a ravine. The segment ends at the sulphur springs just below Soufrière. Easy to combine with Segment 2 in a single long day if you want (we didn't, we wanted to savour it).

Where to sleep on Segment 1: Soufrière at the north end of the segment is where most hikers base up, but you've got options in Scott's Head too.

  • Budget: Soufrière Guesthouse. Jon's place. Hiker-focused and the single best source of up-to-the-minute trail info on the island. Simple rooms, shared spaces, good vibes. Psst: Ocean Nomads members get a discount here (more on that below).
  • Mid-range: Small boutique stays in and around Soufrière on Booking.com. Cottages and B&Bs up the hillsides.
  • Start of segment: A handful of Airbnbs in Scott's Head village itself if you want to sleep at the actual southern terminus before setting off.

Trail resources: Segment 1 on AllTrails · Segment 1 on the official WNT website

WNT Segment 2: Soufrière to Bellevue Chopin

A sailboat takes you to wild places. Your feet take you deeper into them.
Day 2/12 Hiking the WNT across Dominica
📍Soufrière to Bellevue Chopin, 15° 15′ N, 61° 20′ W
Into the jungle, leaving the coast behind
Distance: 12 km
Total Distance hiked 18.5 km / 180 km
Time: 6 hrs
Weather: hot & humid
Sleep: We got invited to pitch our tent in someone's garden (& for breakfast next day :))
Highlights: Wild fruit, finding water & picknicking under a palmtree
Challenges: Big climb, getting lost, finding veggie food
Treasures found: Starfruit, waterappel rain, rasberries, a man selling veggies, a flat spot
Spirit: So excited to be treasure hunting!

We started in Soufriere, one of my favourite basecamps in the tropics. Out of here was a big uphill through the tropical bushes with 1000 shades of green.

The trail zigzags its way up into the island. Crossing forest, farmland and small villages. Those jungle sounds are amazing. We got lucky finding some wild fruits. Have you ever tried waterapples? Delicious!

It was wraps with almond butter and some random things under the palm tree for lunch. And a little siesta :)

We reached town just before sunset. Explored the food options and walked out of town hoping to find a flat spot, one of the main things to be grateful for living a life nomadically! It was hard to find one. Then we met someone on trail and he offered us to pitch in his backyard. So nice!

Trail tip: Go slooow. So many plants, fruits, life & sounds to be noticed!

“On each segment there were supposed to be these information boards, but sometimes they were disappeared by damage or the sun. The shelters in different places are actually really nice, but often the roof didn't exist anymore, so we couldn't actually really use them as shelters.”

“You see, it's a fruit trail. Oh, I want that one, that red one. Wild raspberry. So wild.”

WNT Segment 2 Tips & Resources

Segment 2 is +/-12 km and takes 4 to 5 hours officially, but budget 5 to 6 hours with a full pack. It's mostly clear but poorly marked in places, with a steep climb up from the Soufrière Sulphur Springs, a traverse around the slopes of Morne Plat Pays, and a long descent through Tête Morne and Pichelin before ending at the top of the hill in Bellevue Chopin. Fill your bottles at the taps in Tête Morne. It'll save you carrying water up the climb.

Where to sleep on Segment 2: The start (Soufrière) has options (see Segment 1 above). The end in Bellevue Chopin itself has no formal accommodation I know of, so this takes a bit of planning.

  • Budget: Hitch or take a bus down to Loubiere for the night, come back in the morning.
  • Mid-range: Hike a little further onto Segment 3 and stop in Giraudel, the next village. Small guesthouses and cottages with mountain views.
  • Wildcard: Camp in a local's garden if someone offers (as we did). Ask around, people are generous.

Here's a live map of bookable places across the south of the trail so you can pick based on what's free for your dates:

Trail resources: Segment 2 on AllTrails · Segment 2 on the official WNT website

Now the treasure hunting really starts.

WNT Segment 3: Bellevue Chopin to Wotten Waven

Day 3 Hiking the WNT across Dominica

📍Bellevue Chopin to Wotten Waven, 15° 18′ N, 61° 21′ W
Distance hiked 15 km / 180 km
Time: 6 hrs
Weather: warm, humid, and some rain
Sleep: Rolled out our mat under a roof
Challenges: Finding the trail, food and shelter. The usual ;)
Treasures found: First river dip!, Coconuts, finding a cable to charge the camera & a warm meal and hot spring at the end of the day.
Spirit: Super excited!

We started the day with a superpower breakfast offered by Kevin, who let us sleep in his garden. I was very excited about today because we will reach the first river (it's time for a dip!) and end the day with hotsprings!

The trail passed through farms and small villages. Before turning into forest again. At the river Claire we got our first river dips! That felt SO good. How amazing after 2,5 days of tropical sweating.

It was a bit of a treasure hunt to find our way out but we did! A steep climb back into the jungle forest brought us to the next village where we hoped to find a cable to charge our camera & Garmin, which we forgot. No stores but we met the policeman who happened to have a spare for us. And he offered us a drink.

We end the day in Wotten waven, which is hot spring haven. I also found a home cooked veggie meal! Something surprisingly hard to find in the villages.

Now we're really arriving in hot, humid, lush jungle!

Trailtip: Navigation gets trickier. Don't rely on one source only and keep an eye out for the blue & yellow markers.

“The people make the hike, you know, like people like you say hi. We are towards the end of segment three already, and so far it has been really, really, really good. We haven't come across any other hikers.”

“Water apple, star fruit. So many fruits.”

WNT Segment 3 Tips & Resources

Segment 3 is +/-15 km and takes 4 to 6 hours. Sparsely marked. The hardest navigational puzzle is crossing the River Claire: the old bridge washed out in Hurricane Maria, so the trail now drops you to the river further downstream and you walk upstream for +/-10 minutes before finding the faint blue-and-yellow marks on two large boulders that mark the climb out. Don't take the small track to the farm shack on the right; go straight up. The segment ends at Wotten Waven, which is Dominica's hot-spring haven. Reward yourself.

Where to sleep on Segment 3: Wotten Waven is where you want to land. It's Dominica's hot-spring village and has the widest choice of stays on the south half of the trail.

  • Budget: Le Petit Paradis. My top pick at this tier. Yummy home-cooked meals, pitch your tent, hang a hammock, or roll your mat out under the roof. Hot springs in the village for a small entry fee.
  • Mid-range: Le Petit Paradis also has private rooms. Tia's Bamboo Cottages is right here in Wotten Waven (its own hot spring pool and rustic treehouse-style cabins on the trail itself), and various Airbnbs in the Roseau Valley.
  • Eco-luxury: Cocoa Cottages in Shawford (Roseau Valley, +/-20 min drive from Wotten Waven, so a short taxi ride off the trail). Chocolate-themed jungle lodges with hot tub and meals on site. A treat after days in the tent.
  • See all Wotten Waven options on Booking.com.

Trail resources: Segment 3 on AllTrails · Segment 3 on the official WNT website

WNT Segment 4: Wotten Waven to Pont Cassé

How little we need to feel so rich. Just a tin roof
items for the pick nick and legs that bring us here
& not in a rush to be anywhere. It's everything to me

Day 4 & Segment 4 on the Waitukubuli National Trail across the nature island is wet, wild and very lush and jungle vibes. It's a fairly easy segment.

Worth the little detour for your picknick or swim: Middleham falls!

“So, segment four, I think it will be an eventful day. And it's 7:00 in the morning. Let's hit the trail.”

WNT Segment 4 Tips & Resources

Segment 4 is +/-14 km and takes 4 to 5 hours. The trail's in good condition except for one thing: a missing bridge +/-1 km before Pont Cassé, where you'll use ropes to descend into a ravine, scramble 30 m downstream past boulders, and rope back up the other side. Treacherous when wet, so don't rush this bit. The detour to Middleham Falls is worth every extra step: one of the island's most spectacular waterfalls. The segment ends at the WNT headquarters in Pont Cassé, where you can pick up maps and buy segment passes.

Where to sleep on Segment 4: Pont Cassé itself is more of a road junction than a village, but the wider Saint Paul Parish area has some lovely rainforest stays across all tiers.

  • Budget: The Corner Bar / Natty's place on the Wotten Waven to Laudat road. Basic camping for +/-EC$10 per person. Closest option to the trail itself.
  • Mid-range: Tia's Bamboo Cottages (Wotten Waven, at the start of the segment with its own hot springs). Trois Piton Apartments sits right at the junction of Segments 4 and 5 at Pont Cassé, a great pick if you're finishing Segment 4 on foot. Laudat and Trafalgar guesthouses earlier on the segment also fit this tier.
  • Eco-luxury: Cocoa Cottages (Shawford, a short drive off Segment 4). Chocolate-themed jungle lodges with hot tub and meals on site.
  • Search Pont Cassé area on Booking.com for the current shortlist.

Trail resources: Segment 4 on AllTrails · Segment 4 on the official WNT website

WNT Segment 5: Pont Cassé to Castle Bruce

Day 5 of removing AI from your feed & replacing it with mud, jungle hiking and coconuts 😉
📍Segment 5 Waitukubuli National Trail, 15° 23′ N, 61° 20′ W
Day 5
Distance hiked: No idea
Weather: Hot, humid & rainy
Sleep: pitched the tent at the school
Challenges: Landslides, collapsed bridges, river crossings, razorgrass, leaking mat.
Treasures found: Biggest coconut ever, lots of river dips & a connection from years ago
Mood: 💯

Today was muddy, slippery and so green and pretty 😊 Pretty wild

Some collapsed / debatable bridges and river crossings. Landslides. Slippery sections and So much cool flora and fauna!

When I was in Dominica in 2016/2017 I stayed in this area and it was when I discovered about this trail! We met a local farmer who offered us the biggest coconut ever. He knew my friends where I stayed, who's place sadly got wiped out by the hurricane (I wrote about Beyond Vitality, the off-grid eco camp where I stayed back then, before Maria took it). This farmer's house got taken by a recent landslide. It's not just a wild place to hike. It's a wild place to live. But the kindness, mentality and overall health of the people here with active and outside lifestyle make them resilient and strong.

We walked into Castel Bruce just before sunset. We found some food in the village and very happy the school let us pitch our tent there. Villages are not the best places to pitch a tent.

The videos of this segment are so good (and a little bit hilarious 😊, Jonte got stuck in the bamboo 😂). The big vlog lives on YouTube with some deeper storytelling.

“Here we are at the entrance of segment five. What do you have there? This is what is called razor grass. It has some sort of thorns here, and they stick to you like glue. And then they cut you.”

“Coconut cheers. This is the best coconut I've had in Dominica.”

WNT Segment 5 Tips & Resources

Segment 5 is +/-17 km, +/-5 to 6 hours. Important current condition note (as of late 2025): the first half from the WNT headquarters at Pont Cassé to Emerald Pool is in good condition and well marked. After Emerald Pool, the trail descends and joins the Castle Bruce road for +/-1 km, but then it's been damaged by landslides. Most hikers now exit onto the road at that point and walk the road into Castle Bruce, then continue on the main road into the Kalinago Territory to pick up the Segment 6 trailhead. Don't miss Emerald Pool itself; it's worth lingering.

Where to sleep on Segment 5: Castle Bruce has a small but solid cluster of options, and the wider east coast offers more if you have transport.

Trail resources: Segment 5 on AllTrails · Segment 5 on the official WNT website

WNT Segment 6: Castle Bruce to Hatton Garden

The last day in civilization before a long jungle stretch

📍Segment 6 Day 6 Waitukubuli National Trail, 15° 22′ 52″ N, 61° 20′ 33″ W
Weather: Hot & Sunny, that umbrella comes out useful!
Sleep: Woke up at the school yard & ended up pitching tent in Kevins garden in the Kalinago Territory
Challenges: heat & finding non fried food
Treasures found: home cooked meal, supercool hat, lots of coconuts & kindness of strangers

Today is a hot day where we hike through the Kalinago Territory. Up and down near the ocean. We got invited for coconuts here and there. How cool is that!

After today we will head into the jungle for a few days, a part no one has hiked completely in many years. We better find some good food and snackies today.

We pitched our tent in Kevins garden. He made us a delicious home cooked meal. Ohh how much I was looking forward to that! So far the food we've found was either wild fruit (amaaaazing but not enough) and fried stuff and snackies.

Got myself an original fern hand made Kalinago hat 😊

“What are we having? Feels like real old native style. It's good hiking food, because you feel how much energy it contains. This is probably the best takeaway package.”

WNT Segment 6 Tips & Resources

Segment 6 is +/-15 km, +/-4 to 6 hours. It runs through the Kalinago Territory, home to Dominica's indigenous Kalinago people, and is mostly in good condition. The first half is a series of short ups and downs along the Atlantic coast that rejoin the main road between each ravine, which makes this segment one of the easiest on the whole trail to sample in smaller day-hike bites. Don't miss the L'Escalier Tête Chien (the “snake staircase” rock formation), the Kalinago Barana Auté cultural village, and Isulakati Waterfall. The very last stretch down to Hatton Garden gets overgrown. Don't be surprised to push through some fern.

Where to sleep on Segment 6: Some of the warmest, most personal stays on the whole trail are in and around the Kalinago Territory.

Trail resources: Segment 6 on AllTrails · Segment 6 on the official WNT website

WNT Segment 7 & 8 (part 1): Hatton Garden to Melville Hall River

so we slightly underestimated this bit

Day 7/12

Probably the most advanced hiking I've ever done.

Segment 8 Part 1
Weather: hot, humid, rainy & dark…
Sleep: Found a flat spot in the dark
Challenges: 100 trees to climb over, dense jungle, and a little bit of night hiking
Treasures: a flat spot! Yeah & a coconut :) And water!

Just a few more kilometres…. Yeah right. In most cases, it's better to talk in time than distance. Segment 8 is where the trail turns very wild. Very few people hike here and we were actually the first ones to hike the full thing since hurricane Maria. Thanks to clearing of Jon from the Soufriere guesthouse. The afternoon adventure turned into a little night adventure. It was tough!

And probably the most advanced hiking I've ever done. Just another afternoon in my life ;)

We reached the promised land: Melville Hall river where Johnny Mango popped up a million star hotel.

These are the memories that stick with me forever. This segment is not to be underestimated. We're only just getting started. Not to be done alone, or without a guide or without @johnny__mango. It's wild, dense and very technical!

Would you be up for it?

Stay tuned to see what this wildcamp spot looks in daylight and a more challenging day tomorrow!

“Here we are at the end of segment seven, in front of segment eight. This is supposedly going to be a tough one. We still have about two and a half hours of daylight, so we're going to see how far we can get to be ready for the tough section tomorrow.”

“We have arrived to the paradise. Here is Watercress Paradise. It took a few weeks of sailing, a few days of hiking, but here is Superpower Heaven, full with water. I am preparing our king-size bed for this evening. It's going to be a riverside with a million stars.”

WNT Segment 7 Tips & Resources

Segment 7 is +/-10 km and +/-3 to 4 hours (Jon's update from Jan 2026: it's easier than feared). Some sections are overgrown with high ferns but easily passable. It ends at a remote, poor farming road near First Camp, so access from there is limited. The most realistic option is to walk out +/-5 km to Marigot along the tracks south of the airport runway, where you can actually sleep and eat.

Where to sleep after Segment 7: The trailhead itself has no accommodation. Walk or hitch to Marigot, Calibishie or back to the Kalinago Territory for the night.

  • Budget: Small guesthouses and homestays in Marigot village, +/-5 km from the trail-end along the airport tracks. Most honest Segment 7 option if you want to stay close to where the trail actually comes out.
  • Mid-range: Hibiscus Valley Inn at Hatton Garden (the start of Segment 7). The most trail-adjacent proper bed. Best option for a rest night before tackling Segment 8, and owners will help with transport.
  • Side-trip stay (rest day, not trail-adjacent): If you want a break from trail mode and have transport, Sea Cliff Eco-Cottages in Calibishie (a coastal village +/-20 km / 30 min drive north of First Camp) is solar-powered, on some of the island's best beaches, and a gorgeous non-hiking day off. Other Calibishie options on Booking.com.

Trail resources: Segment 7 on AllTrails · Segment 7 on the official WNT website

WNT Segment 8 (part 2): Melville Hall River to Petite Macoucherie (over Mosquito Mountain)

We woke up at Melvin Hall River in the middle of the Dominica jungle. It's the last place where we can source water for a while. After a 5 hour brutal uphill hike we made it to the top of Mosquito Mountain. Time to eat that delicious banana wrapped cassava treat. The best hiking food ever! 100 more scratches ‘aka' Dominica tattoos further and lots of mud canyoning later we made it to Segment 9 just before sunset, a segment that is said to be even more brutal.

Comfort is overrated ;) This is what makes us grow and shine. I'm posting this 3 years later as the memories are just too good to stay in pictures in an archive somewhere.

“Here we are. Maybe you recognize the place. We made it to the top of Mosquito Mountain and this solid wooden bench, the promise bench. How do you feel? Oh, that was a mosquito. A mosquito on the top of Mosquito Mountain. I feel good, a little bit hungry, and good. We made it to the top. It was quite a climb.”

“That's cassava, which they boil into some sort of cake and add a little bit of sugar. It's the perfect little package for a trail. It contains a lot of calories and keeps you going for quite some time.”

WNT Segment 8 Tips & Resources

Segment 8 is +/-16 km and the single hardest segment of the WNT. The official FAQ and every experienced hiker I know agree: plan on +/-8 to 9 hours; expect it to take 4 to 5 times longer than Segment 1. It crosses Mosquito Mountain, which is steep, slippery, very overgrown, with a collapsed summit hut. There is no phone service for most of the segment and on cloudy days you can lose GPS signal under the canopy.

Two things that are non-negotiable on Segment 8:

  • Carry at least 2.5 L of water per person when you leave Melville Hall River. There are no more reliable streams until near the end of the segment.
  • Don't hike it alone, and really don't hike it without a guide right now. If you reach Melville Hall River and you're already 3 hours in, expect another 6 to 8 hours on the far side. Turn back if you don't have plenty of daylight left.

Where to sleep on Segment 8: You're wild-camping. There are no formal accommodations and currently no standing shelters along the trail. The best camp spot is next to the Melville Hall River (after the second crossing, by the trail sign). Avoid riverside camping in heavy rain, flash floods are real.

Trail resources: Segment 8 on AllTrails · Segment 8 on the official WNT website · Before attempting, check the Soufrière Guesthouse page for the latest condition notes from Jon (he updates it every few months).

WNT Segment 9: Petite Macoucherie to Colihaut Heights

Day 9. Rough night of sleep. It was very windy. The food I ate yesterday did not go well. And today is the toughest segment of all, section 9, only recommended to very experienced and advanced hikers. Let's see how it goes.

In the beginning it's more like climbing down and up than hiking. Just an endless roller-coaster of slippery, muddy ravines.

At the end of the day: brutal, gnarly, challenging. But we did it. Segment nine. The toughest so far.

Found another half-collapsing hut for the night. A roof over our heads. A flat space. Jungle sounds. Still a little bit of light. The hut is about to collapse, but it's not collapsing. Good enough for tonight.

Segment 9 was my first day of real trail-injuries. The wet socks and wet shoes all week had given me blisters, and in the morning I was taping my feet with whatever we had left. “Express your feelings please.” “Yeah, feels good.”

WNT Segment 9 Tips & Resources

Segment 9 is +/-15 km and +/-6 to 8 hours. It's the second-hardest segment after Segment 8. Cleared, but very rough, and with almost no phone signal. Only very experienced hikers should attempt it without a guide. A key bailout point to know: roughly halfway, an access road from Morne Rachette joins the trail at a farm with three huts. The 5 km section south of that access road has been known to take people up to 6 hours, and exiting from Morne Rachette means an 8 km road walk back down to the coast, so plan accordingly if the day starts to slip.

Where to sleep on Segment 9: Along the trail itself you're wild-camping or using the farm huts at the midpoint access road. If you bail to the coast, the closest villages are Colihaut and Morne Rachette on the west coast.

  • On trail (free): Three collapsing-but-usable huts at the midpoint farm where the Morne Rachette access road joins the trail. Wild-camping anywhere suitable.
  • Budget (bailout): Small guesthouses and Airbnbs in Colihaut and Morne Rachette villages on the Caribbean coast. See Colihaut & Morne Rachette on Booking.com.

Trail resources: Segment 9 on AllTrails · Segment 9 on the official WNT website

WNT Segment 10: Colihaut Heights to Syndicate

Day 10. Segment 9 done, segment 10 feels like a reward from the universe. Easy-peasy. The card I pulled this morning says “Struggle is real.” Is it? Yeah, just need a little bit of a coast.

We're going to crush some miles today. Short day, good terrain, and we're in parrot country now. Morne Diablotin behind us, Syndicate ahead.

WNT Segment 10 Tips & Resources

Segment 10 is +/-7 km and +/-2 to 3 hours. One of the shortest and easiest segments on the whole trail, in very good condition (as of 2025). The trail heads slightly inland from the Colihaut Heights trailhead, crosses a couple of ridges on easy terrain, and ends at the Syndicate Nature Trail office, deep in parrot country. Because access to the trailhead is a little out of the way, many hikers without transport simply continue straight onto Segment 11 to reach Picard instead of backtracking to the coast.

Where to sleep on Segment 10: The Syndicate area is a birdwatching hotspot for Dominica's endemic Sisserou and Jaco parrots, which fly in and out of the surrounding forest at dawn and dusk. Pick accommodation with a balcony if you can.

  • Mid-range: Brandy Manor (near Syndicate). Adjacent to the trail, best pick if you want to see wild parrots from your balcony. Yasmin, the owner, knows her birds.
  • All tiers, further west: If you continue onto Segment 11 you'll reach Picard/Portsmouth, which is where the real range of options opens up. Picard / Portsmouth area on Booking.com.

Trail resources: Segment 10 on AllTrails · Segment 10 on the official WNT website

WNT Segment 11: Syndicate to Borne

Finished 10 this morning, easy-peasy. Now we're at the start of segment 11, and first order of business is a village resupply. Banana estate country. Coconuts on the ground. We pick up a few and keep going.

One of my favourite superpowers for trail food: local-made cocoa. Pure cacao, probably some nutmeg, cinnamon, maybe some ginger. Picked some up on resupply. Gives a lot of energy.

Then the river crossing. We were told it was going to be a bridge, but also that it was in bad condition. And as you can see, it's pretty bad. Basically rocking. So we cross the river down below instead. That's deep. Shoes off, shoes on, move on.

Up Morne Balvine. Razor grass section, just like Jon warned us. We push through.

WNT Segment 11 Tips & Resources

Segment 11 is +/-15 km and +/-4 to 5 hours. It was perfectly cleared in May 2025 (per Jon) and is in very good shape. The first half, from Syndicate down to Picard (on the Caribbean coast), is very easy, a gentle descent through forest. After Picard, the trail cuts back across a broken bridge over the river, climbs up Morne Balvine (razor-grass country, still passable when clear), and continues on steep, tricky ground to Borne. The final stretch north of the main road is usually overgrown. Most hikers just road-walk to the start of Segment 12.

Where to sleep on Segment 11: The mid-point at Picard (near Portsmouth) is the natural stop and has the widest choice of accommodation on the entire northern half of the trail. This is also a great general base for anyone visiting north Dominica, whether hiking or not.

  • Budget: Clara House (Picard). Rooftop terrace, rose garden, solid reviews, reasonable rates.
  • Mid-range: Picard accommodation on Booking.com. Plenty of locally-owned guesthouses and apartments in this range.
  • Eco-luxury: Manicou River Eco Resort. Off-grid, owner-built cottages in the forested foothills above Portsmouth Bay, with the Cabrits National Park right below. Solar, rainwater, biodegradable everything.

Trail resources: Segment 11 on AllTrails · Segment 11 on the official WNT website

WNT Segment 12: Borne to Penville

Day 11. Segment 12.

A local along the trail gave us something called “apricot.” Nothing to do with apricot at all. Maybe in terms of colour. But an amazing fruit. This is what trail magic looks like in Dominica: strangers who hand you fruit you've never seen before.

Later, a whole hillside of lemongrass. Lemongrass, lemongrass, and mosquito repellent. We rub it on our arms.

Then we climbed and climbed and climbed, and reached this view: the northern coast of Dominica. On a clear day you can see both the Atlantic and the Caribbean from up here. Worth every step.

Passed an old coffee estate. The sign said they grew coffee here from 1827. 67 slaves. The trail carries a lot of history if you slow down enough to read it.

WNT Segment 12 Tips & Resources

Segment 12 is +/-13 km and +/-3 to 5 hours. One of the less severe segments on the trail, getting overgrown in places but still easy to follow. The big highlight: on clear days you can see both the Atlantic and the Caribbean Sea at the same time from the ridge. The final climb north of Vieille Case gets bushy near the top (expect a few minutes of fern-bashing), but the far side is clear all the way to Penville.

Where to sleep on Segment 12: Penville is a small, friendly village with limited but genuine options.

Trail resources: Segment 12 on AllTrails · Segment 12 on the official WNT website

WNT Segment 13: Penville to Capuchin

Day 12. Segment 13. Almost the last one.

Quite a loop. We can see it right there from the ridge. Short and sweet compared to everything we've done since segment 6.

It started raining before we could find a spot, so we sprinted the last bit. Fast tent pitching. Luckily we already knew where we wanted to pitch. And as you can hear, it's very cozy inside now.

WNT Segment 13 Tips & Resources

Segment 13 is +/-7.5 km and +/-2 to 3 hours. Re-cleared recently and in good condition. A pleasant, mostly-easy walk with sharp volcanic boulders strewn along the coast and big views over the strait toward Guadeloupe. The end point at Capuchin is hard to get out from unless you continue onto Segment 14 or road-walk down to Toucari Bay, so many hikers day-hike this one as an out-and-back from Penville.

Where to sleep on Segment 13: This is an out-and-back segment for most hikers, so the sleep question is about where to base yourself rather than where to land.

Trail resources: Segment 13 on AllTrails · Segment 13 on the official WNT website

WNT Segment 14: Capuchin to Cabrits / Portsmouth

Day 13. Good morning. It's 6-something, and only Jonte and me and Froggy are awake. Our last full day. One more night to go.

It's been a beautiful night here, so many nature sounds. No connection, only nature. Lots of super fireflies.

We've reached the northern coast of Dominica. From the south through to the north. We're on the last segment, 14. Mid-morning we got flagged down by a Dominica Television news crew on the trail. Two hikers who just made it to the top of the island.

That night, the one and only beach camp of the whole thru-hike. Under a palm tree on some beach the locals didn't even know was here. Ran out of battery. Charged up on the sound of waves instead.

And then, after twelve days and fourteen segments, we arrived at Cabrits National Park. There's no official finish line here. Just a trail hut, and we picked the spot that felt like it was the end.

A little recap: it's a very special island. Every day has been different. Every segment, a completely different part of Dominica. Different altitudes, different villages, different rivers and waterfalls. We swam probably more than once a day. One of the highlights was all the wild fruits we found along the way.

Thanks to all the trail angels who helped us along the way. Now to town for a local juice.

WNT Segment 14 Tips & Resources

Segment 14 is +/-11 km and +/-4 to 6 hours. Mostly beach and road, so easy to follow. From the back garden at Cape Melville the trail drops to the rocky shore, follows the beach below Capuchin, joins the main road through Clifton and Cocoyer, and eventually ends with a walk along the beach at Cabrits National Park. A fittingly mellow finish after 13 days of jungle.

Where to sleep on Segment 14: Portsmouth and the Cabrits area form Dominica's busiest tourist cluster in the north. Big range of options across all budgets, and a perfect base whether you're finishing the WNT or just visiting north Dominica.

  • Budget: Budget guesthouses in Portsmouth. Several small family-run places at backpacker rates.
  • Mid-range: Locally-owned hotels and B&Bs in Picard and Portsmouth. Good range of comfortable, character-filled stays near the trail end.
  • Eco-luxury: Manicou River Eco Resort. Off-grid, owner-built cottages in the forested foothills between Douglas Bay and Portsmouth, with the Cabrits National Park right below. Solar, rainwater, biodegradable everything, fruit trees you can pick from. This is the finish-line treat I'd actually book. Secret Bay is another eco-architecture option in the area if budget is truly no object.

Trail resources: Segment 14 on AllTrails · Segment 14 on the official WNT website

Where to stay in Dominica: a region-by-region overview

You don't have to hike the Waitukubuli to enjoy the best of Dominica. If you're visiting the Nature Island for a week or two (or planning a base to hike a couple of segments from), here's how the accommodation along the trail breaks down by region and by budget. These are the same places I recommend to hiker friends, but they work equally well as general Dominica bases. The WNT simply passes through every major area of the island.

A note on the picks below: I lean toward small, locally-owned, eco-conscious, and Kalinago-run stays, and I've deliberately skipped the big chain resorts. Dominica's character lives in off-grid lodges, home-cooked meals, and hosts who know the land. Spend your money where it stays on the island.

South Dominica (Scotts Head, Soufrière, Wotten Waven)

Best for: diving at Scotts Head Marine Reserve, the sulphur springs, hot-spring pools in Wotten Waven, and as a base for the Boiling Lake hike. Covers Segments 1 to 3 of the WNT.

Central Dominica (Pont Cassé, Castle Bruce, Kalinago Territory)

Best for: Emerald Pool, Middleham Falls, Morne Trois Pitons National Park (UNESCO), Atlantic coast beaches, and cultural immersion with the Kalinago people. Covers Segments 4 to 6.

North Dominica (Picard, Portsmouth, Penville, Cabrits)

Best for: Cabrits National Park and historic Fort Shirley, Indian River boat tours, the Sisserou parrot at Syndicate, Toucari Bay snorkelling, and finishing the WNT in style. Covers Segments 10 to 14.

A few things I'd tell you before you go

After twelve days and fourteen segments, here's what I'd say to anyone who wants to hike this trail:

Don't do it alone. Go together. Inform yourself with the most up-to-date information (talk to Jon at Soufrière Guesthouse; check his page for the latest condition notes). Always make sure someone knows where you are. Stay hydrated. Protect yourself from the sun. Common-sense things. But mostly: take it easy and have fun. If it's not fun, you won't continue.

Gear-wise, you need less than you think. A tent or hammock, a good sleeping mat, a sleeping bag, a satellite communicator for the remote segments. Water is available on every segment, so you don't have to carry a huge amount. The full gear list is in my WNT planning guide.

And a thank you to the trail angels. The people we met on the trail or in villages who helped us, greeted us, shared information, fruit, sometimes breakfast. That trail magic gave us the energy to keep going. Special thanks to Jon at Soufrière Guesthouse for the information and the encouragement. That last push: “You can do this.”

Watch the full film: 12 Days on Foot

Go deeper: raw trail footage on Patreon

The Waitukubuli was the wildest raw trail I've ever done. I've put together a Patreon-only YouTube playlist with raw background videos and audios from the trail, plus the raw interview audio (and transcript) with the national newspaper. No ads. No edits. No optimization. Just the trail, the campfire, the moments, the tips, and the thoughts.

What's inside:

  • Practical trail tips
  • Quiet reflections and footage from the trail and campfire
  • Thoughts that don't belong publicly on the wild wild web
  • Some wild stuff :)
  • Raw interview with the national newspaper (audio & transcript)

This playlist lives on Patreon because it doesn't belong on public YouTube. It's not optimized, edited, or monetized. It's simply shared.

Access the WNT playlist on Patreon

Sail across the Atlantic to Dominica with Ocean Nomads

We didn't fly to Dominica. We sailed. 21 days across the Atlantic Ocean from the Canary Islands on a hundred-year-old classic sailboat with Ocean Nomads, the ocean-conscious sailing community I founded. For me it was my fifth Atlantic crossing. And arriving in Dominica by sea completely reframed what the island is. You haven't really landed on a nature island until you've approached it slowly, through ocean.

Winter 2026 / 2027: we're organizing the next Atlantic crossing from Europe. If you've been dreaming of sailing across the Atlantic with a like-minded crew, sharing watches, cooking, sunrise coffees and dolphin moments, and maybe walking off the boat onto a trail like this one, this is the trip. Applications open to Ocean Nomads members first.

Heading to Dominica without us? Ocean Nomads members still get perks on the island

Our members-only community map has Dominica pinpointed with everything we learned on the ground and on the trail:

  • Provisioning tips (where to shop, what to bring, what's scarce)
  • Local contacts for guides, transport, and hard-to-find info
  • A discount on freediving in Scott's Head Marine Reserve (one of the Caribbean's best walls)
  • A discount at Soufrière Guesthouse, Jon's place, where most of this trail intel originally came from

If you're planning Dominica, the member discount at Soufrière Guesthouse alone can cover the cost of joining. You also get the community, the knowledge hub, and early access to every future expedition.

Join the Ocean Nomads community for the member perks, Dominica map, and trip priority access. Or browse upcoming expeditions if you're ready to sail with us.

More thru-hike & slow-travel resources

The Waitukubuli was one of ten long-distance trails I've hiked (totalling +2,000 km). If this post is helpful and you're planning your own, here's more from the site that might save you time and help you pack smarter.

Planning & gear for the WNT (and other long-distance trails)

Other long-distance trails I've hiked

Planning your own WNT hike, a single segment or the full trail? Drop a comment below or under the film on YouTube. I read every one.

Suzanne

Suzanne

My name is Suzanne. I live nomadically between ocean and mountains, by sail, van, and trail. I share stories and lessons from a life outdoors, shaped by slow travel and living in tune with nature.Find me on Instagram, YouTube, and Facebook. My newsletter is where I share field notes, seasonal rhythms, and slower reflections. Go deeper behind the scenes on Patreon. And if you feel the pull to live this way, come find your people inside Ocean Nomads.Be kind, stay curious, and stay wildful.

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