Even the licence plates in Bonaire say divers paradise. They're not wrong about scuba. The freedive world is still catching on, which is exactly why I went. Two weeks of AIDA training later, I'd progressed more than I would have in a year anywhere else.
This little southern Caribbean island is blessed with rough natural beauty above and below the surface. The water drops fast. The reef is protected. The training pool is in the sea. The freedive scene is small but serious. And nobody is shouting about it yet, which is part of why it works.
Here are 12 reasons to make Bonaire your next freedive destination, whether you're a beginner or training for serious depth. Plus the dive sites worth hitting, what's on offer at the schools, and where to extend the trip if you want to combine it with a Caribbean liveaboard or a freedive course elsewhere in the world.
1. The water: deep, clear, warm and calm
The contrast between deep and shallow blue here is spectacular. 50 metres from the shore, the reef drops away. You can already train to 30 metres deep. 100 metres out, you can train to 50. Just a little further, the depth hits 120. Whatever level you're at, the water meets you.
The shape of the island gives Bonaire a big, protected harbour: 24 miles of leeward coast, out of the wind, with hardly any current. Visibility is superb, often 30 metres plus. Water temperature sits around 28°C, climbing to 30°C in summer. You can dive in a 2mm shorty year round, or just board shorts if you don't get cold.
2. A protected reef and shore-access dive sites
Bonaire and Klein Bonaire (the small uninhabited island in front of Kralendijk) are almost completely surrounded by a drop-down reef with vertical walls. Since 1979, the entire coast has been a protected marine park. The marine flora and fauna here are exceptional, with one of the most diverse fish populations in the West Indies.
Every visitor in the water contributes to the marine park through a tag from STINAPA: $25 for divers, $10 for freedivers and snorkellers. More than 60 shore-diving spots are marked by yellow-painted stones at the side of the road. The standout sites for freedivers:
- 1000 Steps: not actually 1000 steps (closer to 67), but the wall drops fast and visibility is consistently strong. A favourite for depth training off the shore.
- Salt Pier: the iconic spot. Massive coral-encrusted pillars holding up the salt company's pier, sponges and fish life everywhere. Magical light through the pillars on a sunny morning. Check whether the pier is closed (no diving when a salt ship is loading).
- Hilma Hooker: a 72-metre cargo shipwreck sitting upright at around 30 metres. Freedive-able if you've got the depth (AIDA 3+ territory), iconic if you can hold the breath. Most scuba divers come for this one. Many freedivers do too.
- Klein Bonaire: the uninhabited island offshore. Water taxi or kayak across. Pristine reef, less traffic, often the best visibility on the trip.
- Town Pier (Kralendijk): night diving spot. Permission and a guide required. Worth knowing about even if you're focused on freedive.
Spearfishing is prohibited except for invasive lionfish. Anchoring isn't allowed, but with more than 100 moorings you've got plenty of options to clip a freedive float. Or find a sailboat to travel on powered by the wind.
3. AIDA, PADI and Molchanovs freedive training
I did my AIDA 3* and 4* on the island back when Carlos Coste was teaching out of Bonaire. World champion, beautiful coach, gave me one of those leaps where you progress more in two weeks than you would in a year anywhere else. Carlos has since moved on to running deep camps in Mexico's Yucatán cenotes and in Cyprus, but the island still has a small, serious freedive scene.
Several established freedive schools currently teach on Bonaire across AIDA, PADI Freediver and Molchanovs Wave certifications. Names rotate, instructors move on, new schools open. Rather than send you to a specific school that may not be the right fit by the time you read this, I'll point you at the cleanest way to compare current Bonaire options against global alternatives in one place.
DiveBookings lists current freedive courses, liveaboards and spearfishing trips worldwide, including the Caribbean. Filter by destination and certification level to see what's running for your dates. Use code OCEANPRENEUR at checkout for $50 off your booking. They're one of the few platforms that serves freedivers as a separate audience rather than an afterthought to scuba.
If Bonaire's timing doesn't line up at all, the same platform covers Dahab (Egypt), Indonesia, the Mediterranean and beyond. Many of the names in the global freedive scene now run camps across multiple locations through the year, so it's worth checking before you commit to a destination.
4. Finding freedive buddies
Finding a freedive buddy is hard most places. Not here. Scuba still dominates, but the freedive scene is growing. There's an active Bonaire freedive WhatsApp group that the schools can plug you into. Open apnea trainings run most weeks. Show up, train, ask. Within a few days you'll have a rotation.
5. Safety: hospital, hyperbaric chamber, close to shore
Every spot is within swimming distance from the shore. The hospital in Kralendijk has a hyperbaric oxygen chamber and specialists in decompression sickness. Not unimportant when you're pushing depth.
6. Freediving in caves
Bonaire has 300 to 400 caves, many still undocumented. Fossilised coral, stalagmites, stalactites, crystal clear water. The top layer (around 2.5 metres) is fresh water. Dive below that and you hit the salty layer, sometimes with a visible halocline. Hidden corners connect to other cave rooms. A must for any freediver coming here. The local cave-diving operators know which caves are accessible safely and run guided sessions.
7. The vibe: relaxed, uncrowded, slow
Relaxation is half of freediving. The more relaxed you are, the better you perform. Bonaire makes that easy. 16,000 islanders, no traffic lights, iguanas and donkeys chilling in the street. After training you can walk the boulevard, catch an open-air cinema, picnic on the beach or sit down for a fresh seaside dinner. Sleep early. Train again.
8. Above-water exploration
On your day off the water, the island still delivers. Wild donkeys, parrots, pelicans, flamingos, cliffs, secluded beaches. Go on safari in Washington Slagbaai National Park. Kayak or snorkel through the mangroves. Sail or paddle to Klein Bonaire. Hike the cactus outback, mountain bike, rock climb. Bonaire is also a serious kitesurf and windsurf destination at Lac Bay, similar in style to Tarifa or El Medano but smaller and more laid-back. If you're staying long, give it a go.
Don't miss the local snacks: Caribbean-style bars, best in the afternoon. Have a drink with someone who's lived here all their life. That's the part you don't get in a hotel.
9. The coolest training pool you'll ever see
In front of the boulevard in Kralendijk there's a sea pool, and it's the best freedive training spot I've used anywhere. Natural, white sandy bottom, tropical fish swimming through it. Lines are set up for 50 and 70 metres so you can train dynamic apnea like in a real pool. It's free. I don't think there's anything else like it in Caribbean freediving.
10. Food: melting pot, easy choices
Bonaire pulls food from everywhere. Colombian ceviche, Venezuelan arepas, Surinam roti, Creole dishes, Dutch bread, and local stobas (stews) and funchi (steamed corn). There are snacks, takeaways, beachside restaurants. Try the lionfish: tasty, healthy, and threatening the ecosystem, so eating it is the right call. For plant-forward food, look for Indian and ayurvedic spots in town. Markets stock fresh produce that you can build picnics around.
11. Cross-training options
Solid freediving needs aerobic and anaerobic work alongside the depth training. Bonaire has gyms, group classes, TRX, yoga, pilates. Massage, acupuncture and spa places for recovery. A boulevard run at sunrise works too, when the wind is still and the light is good. Whatever your routine is, you can keep it here.
12. The people
No one walks past you without saying Bon dia (good morning) or Bon tardi (good afternoon). That's the vibe of a small, uncrowded island. Locals, import-locals who fell in love and stayed, active travellers, watersports lifers, artists, makers. You fit right in.
And all of this, year round. Bonaire sits below the hurricane belt, so the season never closes.
Bonaire vs Curaçao for freediving
People ask me this all the time. Both islands sit on the same ABC reef system, both have walls dropping fast off the shore, both are below the hurricane belt. The differences:
- Bonaire: smaller, quieter, more dedicated freedive infrastructure (multiple schools, the sea-pool, an active local WhatsApp scene). Shore-based everything. Less to do above water, which I'd argue is a plus when you're training.
- Curaçao: bigger island, more lively, more nightlife and tourism infrastructure. Freedive scene is smaller. Best if you want a more mixed trip with non-divers along.
If freediving is the main reason for the trip, go Bonaire. If you want the island holiday with freedive on the side, Curaçao works.
Beyond Bonaire: extending the trip
Bonaire works because it's shore-based. There are no liveaboards leaving from here, which is part of its charm: you walk to the water with your float and go. But if you want to combine the trip with a wider Caribbean liveaboard, or fly off to deeper waters after your course, here's what I'd look at.
- Liveaboard.com for scuba liveaboards in the wider Caribbean (Bahamas, Belize, Honduras) and beyond. Filter by destination and date. Not all boats market themselves to freedivers, but many are open to it. Ask the operator before booking.
- DiveBookings if you want freedive-specific trips, courses or spearfishing expeditions elsewhere in the world. Code OCEANPRENEUR gets you $50 off any booking. Egypt's Dahab, Indonesia, the Mediterranean: this is where to look.
- Sailboat travel if you're already in the Caribbean by boat. Bonaire sits on the route for boats heading from the Caribbean to the Pacific via the Panama Canal, so a lot of cruisers pass through, and the ABC islands are the natural last stop before pushing west. The moorings here are some of the most spectacular I've seen anywhere: you tie up directly above the drop-off, looking down on the fish. If you're keen to crew, my guide on how to find a sailboat ride covers how the matchmaking actually works, and the Ocean Nomads community is where most of it happens.
Where to stay in Bonaire
Anywhere in or near Kralendijk works. The waterfront is the move. Some places I've stayed or had on my list:
- Medium budget: Blue Divers Resort
- Upgrade: Summer Dream Ocean Club
- Apartments near the water: You & Sea Apartments
- Long stay: the Bonaire housing Facebook group is where most rentals get listed first.
- House-sitting: When I was in Bonaire i was housesitting. Bonaire has a small but active house-sitting scene through TrustedHousesitters. Free accommodation in exchange for looking after the residents' dog, cat or garden while they're off-island. Use code TRUSTED15 for 15% off your membership. If you're staying weeks or months, this often beats paying for any other option. More on how it works in my house-sitting platforms guide.
Practical tips for freediving Bonaire
- Tap water: drinkable, high quality. Bring one bottle and refill. If you're not sure, pack a filter bottle (Maunawai code OP2020 gives you 5% off).
- STINAPA tag: keep the receipt. It saves you $10 on the Washington Slagbaai National Park entrance.
- Spearfishing: banned, except for invasive lionfish. Check STINAPA lionfish for current rules.
- Getting around: a car or scooter opens up the inland spots and the south coast shore-diving stones. Not essential but useful.
- Sun: 11 degrees north of the equator, the sun is fierce. Dive mornings or afternoons, and wear reef-safe sunscreen. Or make your own DIY mineral sunscreen.
- Language: locals speak Papiamentu, some Dutch, some Spanish, some English. Learn a few phrases. Bon dia (good morning), Bon tardi (good afternoon), Masha danki (thank you), Ayó (bye), Hopi bon (very good).
- Budget reality: Bonaire isn't a budget destination on first glance, which is also why it stays uncrowded. But step away from the front row of restaurants, ask locals, buy at markets and you'll manage. The freedive progression is worth it.
Bonaire freediving FAQ
Is Bonaire good for freediving beginners?
Yes. Shore-based access, calm water, a natural sea pool with marked lines, and multiple certified freedive schools running from beginner to instructor level. Start with AIDA 2*, PADI Freediver or Molchanovs Wave 1 if you've never freedived before. It's a much friendlier first experience than open-water boat-based training.
When's the best time to freedive in Bonaire?
Year round. Bonaire sits below the hurricane belt, so the season never closes. Water stays 28°C to 30°C. Visibility holds. The driest months are January to April, but I've trained well there in every season. If you're going for new personal bests, build the trip around your physical readiness, not the calendar.
Can I freedive the Hilma Hooker?
Yes, if you've got the depth. The wreck sits upright at 30 metres, which is AIDA 3 territory and above. The top of the mast reaches up to around 18 metres, so even at AIDA 2 you can see the shape of it from above. Plan it with a buddy and ideally on a day with calm water. It's one of those dives that recalibrates what you thought was possible.
Bonaire or Curaçao for freediving?
Bonaire if freediving is the main reason for the trip: more schools, more focused freedive scene, the sea pool, the WhatsApp community. Curaçao if you want freedive on the side of a more mixed island holiday.
What freedive certification can I get in Bonaire?
AIDA 1* through 4* and instructor, PADI Freediver through Master, and Molchanovs Wave 1 and 2 are all available on the island. School line-ups shift over time, so search current Bonaire courses on DiveBookings (code OCEANPRENEUR for $50 off). If you want a sense of what an AIDA course actually looks like before you commit, read my account of a freediving beginner course.
Do I need a boat to freedive in Bonaire?
No. More than 60 shore-diving spots are marked with yellow stones. You walk in. The reef drops away within 50 metres of the shore at most spots. If you want a boat for a specific deep site like Klein Bonaire or the Hilma Hooker, more than 100 moorings are available, and the schools run boat sessions too.
See you in Bonaire
Bonaire isn't trying to be the world's freedive capital. It's quiet about it. But the water, the protection, the schools, the sea pool, the people and the year-round consistency add up to a place where you actually progress. That's the part that matters.
If you want more long-form trail and ocean reflections, behind-the-scenes from training sessions and early access to new posts, that lives over on my Patreon.
Stay wild.
Recommendations in this post are my own, based on my own time freediving and training in Bonaire. Some links are affiliate links: clicking through doesn't cost you anything extra, and it helps fund the next adventure that becomes the next post. Thank you.
