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The Apu Ausangate trekking in the Peruvean Andes | What’s it like?

By January 24, 2014July 27th, 20243 Comments

The Apu Ausangate trekking in the Peruvean Andes | What's it like? And how to do the Apu Ausangate trekking yourself?

Table of Contents

14 meter altitude

I’m sitting in a coffee bar in Miraflores, Lima. I’m figuring out what adventurous things I should do in Peru. The Inca trail and Salkantay trekking are listed in practically every top 10 list I find. Would I than still want to do this? Or will it be one big polonaise towards Machu Picchu? I’m not sure. Anyway, these popular trekkings are booked out until as far as I can plan. Let’s go for a challenging hike alternative in the Peruvian Andes: El camino del Apu Ausangate (the road of Apu Ausangate). I have no regrets!

3410 meter altitude

I’m standing on the rooftop of my home-stay house in Cusco. Looking southeast I can see the snow capped Ausangate mountain in the distance. That’s where I’m going!

I’m acclimatizing for a 5-day hiking expedition around the third largest peak of Peru (6372 meters). Ausangate is an Apu, meaning sacred mountain. This Apu has traditionally been a place of worship in pre-Inca times. Still, every year in June Ausangate draws 10,000 (mostly Quechua) people from rural places in the Cusco region for the pilgrimage of Senor Qoyllur Rit'I . The area is home to alpaca and lama herding communities that manage to survive here with very little since decades of years. These herding Quechua people use high mountain trails to trade with other communities. The road of Apu Ausangate is one these trails. A few years ago this camino (route) has been made accessible to travellers as a way to support and improve the lifestyle of these Andean communities, while good care is taken for conserving the regions cultural and natural heritage.

Map of Ausangate trekking
Ausangate Trek Map

Check out the trail on Alltrails.

3956-meter altitude

I‘m at the starting point of the Apu Ausangate trekking trail in the rural community of Tinque, a 3-hour scenic drive from Cusco. We register and get ready for the 55 km camino! It’s me together with 8 muchachos from Lima (Juan, Juan, Juan, Carlos, Oscar, Giancarlo, Jorge & Coco), the guide (Willy), the chef, and few horseman/camp-builders/sous-chefs, and 8 horses of the local Chillca community. This is going to be fun!

Vamos! Packed with coca leaves, candy, water and six layers of clothes we're off. The horses carry the rest. Despacio, despacio… says Willy, meaning slowly, slowly. I started to notice why…

4451 meters altitude

I'm looking up to the three snow-capped 6000m sacred mountain peaks of Apu Ausangate. I breath in deeply. At this altitude my lungs already are on a constant quest for oxygen. We all arrived safely at the first camping place, the Ausangate basecamp of Upis. I'm full of impressions,and already got two blisters. It's all worth it. The scenery of the Cordillera Vilcanota mountain range in which the Ausangate is located is breath-taking! This first day we've been hiking through a soaky, green valley surrounded by hundreds of lamas and alpacas that are grazing freely in the wild. We have jumped over countless streams of meltwater, talked, laughed and taken photos like there's no tomorrow.  We've met traditionally dressed Quechua communities. The Andean woman wear colourful skirts and flat board hats, while carrying kids or food in their tied cloth on their back. We made some kids happy with candies and bread.  They waved us kindly and shyly goodbye.

4675 meter altitude

I wake up with ice on my sleeping bag. After overcoming the challenge to get out of this warm nest, I’m soaking up the scenery of this morning: frozen waterfalls, huge ice-caps and a gletcher lake. Wow. This is Ausangatecoccha, the highest campsite of the trekking. We have hiked 22.2 km so far. It doesn’t seem much for two days but it has been demanding. By taking it very easy, drinking a lot of water, eating chocolate, and chewing coca leaves, we try to avoid altitude sickness, a very serious mountain disease for which the only cure is to go down! Unfortunately, one of us got altitude sickness and got guided down on an emergency horse by a local to the nearest road.

5131-meter altitude

I’m throwing a snowball at 14 degrees latitude, 5131 altitude. I’m at the Palomani pass of Apu Ausangate. I’ve never been this high and definitely never stood in snow this close to the equator. This is the highest peak of the trekking. With views like this, stopping for breath is a joy! I’m so amazed by how incredible diverse the trail is. Around every ‘corner' or hill there’s a completely new scene to be captured. Green valleys, blue gletcher lakes, red sand stone formations (Nevado del Inca), and white peaks, contrasting with the deep blue sky. It’s unspoilt nature and wilderness at its best!

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4326 meters altitude

It's 4 AM and I’m in a natural hottub. The full moon brightens up Apu Ausangate. Stars are falling for the sky. Damn, I feel alive! It was worth getting up early before the last part of the trail, which is only a short hike back to Tinque, the starting point of the expedition. It has been 5 days and 55 km of hiking. I can count the other hikers I’ve seen on one hand. It’s that remote. On the opposite the amount of wildlife we have encountered is countless: Llamas, Alpacas, Vicuñas (Camel sort), condors, birds. It was tough: we got blisters, fell in rivers, got altitude sickness symptoms, got lost, almost fell off cliffs, got blue lips of the cold and conquered some challenges. But it was a legendary experience of a lifetime! If you want an off the path, unique, challenging but o-so rewarding adventure in nature, go on a hiking expedition around Apu Ausangate!

DIY Apu Ausangate trekking

When is the best time to hike the Apu Ausangate? Between April – November

  • The Apu Ausangate Trekking route can be done in 5 or 6 days. Also, two short routes have been developed
  • Be in good shape. The trek is tough, cold and high! It’s not for couch potatoes.
  • Acclimatize by being on altitude a few days before the trekking
  • Bring warm clothes and a good sleeping bag (for – 15).
  • Bring (coca) candies, leaves and chocolate. This helps you to deal with altitude sickness.
  • Take extra camera batteries and keep them warm. Cold batteries empty quicker.
  • Support the communities by bringing clothes, paper/pencils, and bread.
  • Learn a few words of Quechua and exchange culture with the indigenous!
  • Go with a group tour. It's more fun, informative and safe.  I recommend SATS Peru, a small locally owned travel agency that organizes the trek, responsibly, at a competitive price. They organize a superchef balancing out a perfect menu, camping material, knowledgable staff, and horses. All very well taken care off. Check out Ausangate trekking operators.
  • Be aware it's an adventure in a remote and developing area. Stay flexible, positive and eager to take on the trekking as it comes! The trail is not set in stone, neither is the weather and your ability to deal with altitude.
  • The official website of the Apu Ausangate trekking route (in Spanish): www.rutasausangateperu.com
  • On Alltrails you can find details of the different stages.
  • Where to stay in Cusco before the adventure? Pick you accommodation in Cusco wisely. There is a lot to choose from. Go for the responsible accommodation option in Cusco so your money stays in Cusco and contributes to those in need. Locally owned accommodation in Cusco and/or hotels involved with community projects I recommend:
  • Budget accommodation Cusco: Amaru Hostel and Ninos hotel



    Booking.com


a group of people on horseback trekking through the Ausangate mountain trail.
Apu Ausangate trekking through a scenic field with a majestic mountain backdrop.
a woman standing in front of tents during the Apu Ausangate trekking expedition in the snow.
A man is hiking amidst rocky terrain with mountains in the backdrop during the Apu Ausangate trekking.
Apu Ausangate trekking through a snow-covered mountain range.
Apu Ausangate trekking reveals a picturesque lake encompassed by majestic mountains and rocks.
a woman in a red jacket trekking in front of mountains
Two women trekking down a dirt road in a village during the Apu Ausangate trek.
The sun is shining over a mountain lake during the Apu Ausangate trekking.
a woman in a red jacket standing next to a herd of sheep during the Apu Ausangate trekking.
a lamb and a sheep standing together on the apu ausangate trekking.
Apu Ausangate trekking offers breathtaking views of a mountainous lake.
A woman is hiking the Apu Ausangate trekking trail with llamas.
a man is trekking with a horse on the Ausangate trail.
Two children standing in a dirt field during an Apu Ausangate trekking expedition.
A group of people trekking along a dirt road with the spectacular Ausangate mountain towering in the background.
a man laying down in the snow, taking part in apu ausangate trekking with his arms outstretched.
a view of Apu Ausangate mountain range with snow and a blue sky.
Apu Ausangate trekking unveils a majestic mountain adorned with a scenic waterfall at its core.
Apu Ausangate trekking group of tents in a snowy area with mountains in the background.
a sign sits on a rock along the Ausangate trekking route.
A person trekking on Apu Ausangate overlooks a lake from the top of a mountain.
A group of people trekking in a valley with the Ausangate mountains as the backdrop.
A group of people trekking in front of tents amidst snowy mountains.
A woman is trekking in front of a lake with mountains in the background.
A group of llamas trekking through a rocky field.
The moon rises over the Apu Ausangate mountain range at dusk.
A group of people trekking on Apu Ausangate with horses.
The sun is setting over a snowy area with mountains in the background during the Apu Ausangate trekking expedition.
A man trekking inside a tent during the Apu Ausangate expedition.
a group of horses grazing in the snow during the Apu Ausangate trekking.
Apu Ausangate trekking, children standing on a dirt road.
The Apu Ausangate trekking experience showcases snow-covered mountains.
A fish eye lens captures the breathtaking mountains along the Apu Ausangate trekking route.
Apu Ausangate trekking offers breathtaking views of a stream winding through a grassy field, surrounded by majestic mountains.
A herd of llamas trekking through Apu Ausangate with mountains in the background.
a view of Ausangate mountain range with an Apu shrine by the lake.
A woman trekking through Apu Ausangate dons sunglasses, reflecting the stunning mountain views.
A group of trekkers set up campsites in the mountains at dusk during the Apu Ausangate trekking expedition.
A group of people on the Apu Ausangate trekking adventure standing near tents in front of a mountain.
a woman in a red jacket trekking on top of the Ausangate mountain.
Apu Ausangate trekking adventure through a mountainous terrain with a picturesque stream.
Llamas trekking on a snowy path with Ausangate Mountains in the background.
Apu Ausangate trekking expedition featuring a group of children standing in a dirt field.
An aerial view of the Apu Ausangate mountain range with a lake.
A group of people standing next to a stream during the Apu Ausangate trekking adventure.
Apu Ausangate trekking through a cloudy sky with white clouds.
A small village in the middle of a field with mountains in the background, ideal for apu ausangate trekking.
Apu Ausangate trekking trail, showcasing a valley with colorful mountains and a cloudy sky.
The group of rocks in a field is illuminated by the sun during the Apu Ausangate trekking.
Apu Ausangate trekking spot showcases a stream meandering through a rocky area against the backdrop of majestic mountains.
A group of people dining in a tent during the Apu Ausangate trekking adventure.
A view of a valley with mountains in the background during the Apu Ausangate trekking.
Apu Ausangate trekking group walking down a dirt road with mountains in the background.
Apu Ausangate trekking trip by a group of people in the mountains near a lake.
A herd of alpacas trekking down a dirt road near Ausangate.
Ausangate, a mountain range with snow capped mountains in the background, perfect for apu ausangate trekking.
Apu Ausangate trekking leads to a stunning lake framed by mountains and clouds.
Sheep grazing in a grassy field with mountains in the background during the Apu Ausangate trekking.
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Suzanne

Suzanne

Hi! My name is Suzanne. I'm here to excite and guide you into slow travel adventures, in tune with nature. 🗺️+15yr Fulltime Adventurer by Sail & Van 🧜‍♀️⛵️🚐✨🏕️

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