⛰️42° 38’ 33” N, 0° 3’ 33” E
Hiking across the Pyrenees on the GR11
Stage 17/47
Day 22.
📍Fuen Blanca
Kms hiked: 348 / 840
Weather: Cloudy, calm but Thunder in the background 16°C
🍲Food: home made chai Tea & dhal with lentils, herbs & seaweed
💫Highlights: Surreal campsite, waterfalls in every direction, solo shelter hobbit house.
🤪Challenges: Red ants in my pants vs thunder above tent dilemma, sore feet, wet mats,
Trail tip: The hut at Fuen Blanca is super basic but the views 😍
Highest point today day: 2357m
Spirit: calm, cozy, grateful
Good Morning, Mountains! Ordesa National Park Awaits
Rise and shine, this is Day 22 hiking the Spanish Pyrenees on the legendary GR11 trail. Today’s adventure takes me straight into the heart of Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park, surrounded by waterfalls, wild stone passages, and unpredictable Pyrenean weather.
I’m hiking solo (Wingo is resting today!) and it’s one of those perfect mornings: hardly anyone around, sun is up, and the waterfalls are majestic after last night’s heavy rains. Pro tip: If you want this magical solitude in Ordesa, hit the trail early!
The Beauty & Challenge of Ordesa y Monte Perdido
Ordesa y Monte Perdido is wild, diverse, and honestly, has some of the most spectacular waterfalls I’ve ever seen on any trail. Today the river is murky and roaring after the thunderstorm. Nature’s drama at its peak. I’m making the most of the good weather, knowing it’s about to switch up. Mountain weather rules here; never take it for granted!
With strict camping rules in the national park, planning ahead is key. There are only a couple places where you’re allowed to sleep, like the busy Goriz refuge (book way in advance!) or a secret spot which only can be reached by the determined and wild ;)
Trail Stories: Safety, Planning & Real Mountain Life
Yesterday, thunder forced me down to the valley, where I sheltered in my campervan and waited out the storm. It was the right call; even my bed got wet and hiking would have been sketchy. If you’re slower or just want to smell every flower, you need to plan carefully here, because legal sleeping spots are few and the weather can change in an instant.
This morning, as I climbed into Ordesa y Monte Perdido, the trail was empty. The river crossings and grassy sections were pure bliss after all those rocks. I ran into Maria, a Dutch hiker who started her journey all the way from home. She told me her night at the refugio was wild; hail, destroyed tents, helicopters flying rescue missions. The Pyrenees do not mess around.
Pictures from today:
The Wild Ordesa Route: Waterfalls & Mountain Passes
With the sun blocked by mountains, the morning was cool and the waterfalls never stopped. The trail markers and a few helpful stone cairns kept me on track, even when the path got confusing. Ordesa y Monte Perdido is real treasure-hunt hiking, with scenery flipping dramatically at every col.
Climbing up to Collado de Arroblo (2,343m), I made the smart call to skip the advanced mountaineer route. With storm clouds gathering, I aimed for the secret tiny shelter. Only a handful of people usually fit, so luck and timing matter.
Solo, Safe, and Soaking It In
Today’s hiking was pure serenity: birds singing, fresh air, not a single airplane in sight. But you have to pay attention, the trail is rocky and ankle-twisting, and it’s easy to wander off.
Arriving at lower altitudes, the pines and wildflowers made everything smell like summer. Another waterfall appeared; honestly, I lost count. As I zeroed in on the hut, a wall of nettles tested my nerves, but after a bit of creative route-finding, I made it!
Pyrenean Camping Decisions
What would YOU pick? Sleep in a basic stone hut side by side with an army of red ants, or pitch your slightly-broken tent and risk thunder and rain pounding on your roof all night? This is trail life on the GR11!
Today, I chose the ants. Dried out the mats, cleaned house a bit, and watched the clouds roll in over crazy waterfalls. I also eyed the nearby overhang of rock (hello, prehistoric shelter) but sleeping under a giant rock didn't feel so good;) Even met a giant German hiker doing three weeks in reverse direction.
Dinner was a luxury. Dhal with rice and lentils and a super strong chai tea, all brewed up while the sky continued to threaten rain and a 30% chance of thunder (thank you, Garmin!). Ate, massaged my wrecked left toe (it’s not a blister, just something gnarly), and made a little cave nest for the night.
Simple Routines, Trail Joys
It’s the little things:
- Sipping my home made chai tea in the wild
- Staring down the ants and claiming my (tiny) spot in the wild
- Watching more and more clouds gather, grateful for every dry moment.
- Trading stories with passing hikers: who all agree: sleep, shelter, and food are the priority. Everything else? Bonus!
Tonight, I’m skipping the earplugs just to listen to the waterfalls and sounds of nature.
The next day: Brutal ascent and descent and my dog comes back.
A Big up, big down, classic GR11.
Some Wildful Wisdoms
- Ordesa y Monte Perdido’s beauty is next-level. Respect the forecast. Simple comforts and smart decisions win. And of course, respect nature
- Stop and make a detour for the waterfalls. Those moments are why we walk.
- Don’t underestimate the power of a good hot meal, even if it’s just instant couscous with weird herbs!
- Community matters. It might look like solo hiking, but trail life is full of family.
New friends, unexpected shelters, the magic of hiking Ordesa y Monte Perdido after a storm. I wouldn’t trade it for anything. If you’re planning a GR11 adventure, or just dreaming about Pyrenean trails, drop a comment or subscribe to my youtube or newsletter for more real, wild stories.
Trail Tips & Final Thoughts
Always check the Ordesa y Monte Perdido hiking and camping rules, especially if you want to wild camp or book a refuge. Weather apps can’t always keep up here; learn to read the sky. Be ready with waterproof gear, have a backup plan, and dream big. The waterfalls will blow you away!
Thanks for hiking along! If you want to support my journey or get exclusive trail checklists, check out my Patreon. Hasta luego, and may your socks stay dry and your shelter be cosy.
